Review of Magic Carpet

- Frank Pettit -

This pleasant and clean restaurant immediately announces its' Yemenite identity the moment you walk through the door: poster-sized wall photos of Yemenite families, and a mannequin in a traditional Yemenite woman's costume. You are immediately served some hot pita bread, stuff that looks like salsa, and maybe pickled cabbage; the bread's terrific, but eat it fast before it gets cold. The customers, the waitresses and busboys appear to be either Yemenite or Israeli, and the food is generally pretty authentic and consistently tasty. The menu has a few North African items, but otherwise I would be hard-pressed to explain how the kosher Yemenite cuisine here differs from, say, Israeli cuisine.

The combination appetizer plate is a tad expensive, but has several cool appetizers, including deep-fried Moroccan "cigars" which are like little taquitos, very good, stuffed with meat; falafel balls; kibbeh (deep-fried dumplings filled with chopped meat); and grape leaves, slightly sour, wrapped around spicy rice. The salads of cooked, cold vegetables in sauce are fine, and soup is terrific, hearty and wholesome, like your grandma's.

The meat dishes are hearty, if (in my opinion anyway) sometimes a little underdone: great shishkebabs, shishlik, fried meatballs of spicy ground beef, lamb shank, lamb chops, and grilled and baked chicken dishes. The "mixed grill", with some shishkebab, meatballs, etc., is big enough for two people to share. All entrees come with soup or salad, and two side dishes, so you won't go home hungry.

The Yemenite coffee is, of course, really strong, so much so that you can eat the dark residue at the bottom of your cup with a spoon; but it has a spiciness to it that is different and not unpleasant (What is that? Nutmeg?) For dessert, the baklava is dense, sweet, and recommended.